Where: James Island Town Hall, 1122 Dills Bluff Rd., James Island, SC
Program: Tea Roses
We will meet in the conference room in the back, there will be a big meeting at 7 pm in town hall of government officials.
Characterized as variable in height, with some of the best cultivars being Climbing Teas. Teas have large blooms on weak stems, resulting in drooping, or nodding, flowers. (not hybrid tea roses). If you have any blooms please bring them.
Bring food. There will be some folks coming from work!
At the October meeting we discussed moving our meetings to a different day due to a conflicting Girl Scout meeting at the same place. The new James Island Town Hall has become very popular.
Most of the members at the meeting felt the Sunday meetings had been poorly attended. So we found the Town Hall available on the 3rd Monday from 6 to 8 pm open. We will start with food and fellowship at 6:30 pm and the program at 7 pm. The address is 1122 Dills Bluff rd. Next Meeting is on November 19.
The next program will be on Noisette roses and John Champney. This classification of roses originated in the United States by John Champney and Philippe Noisette of Charleston, SC, Plants are large and sprawling, often reaching up to 20 feet tall. Blooms are produced in fragrant clusters.
The Charleston Lowcountry Rose Society will hold their next meeting on Sunday, March 4 at James Island Town Hall located at 1238-B Camp Rd., James Island, SC 29412 from 3:00 pm to 4:30 pm. Our speaker will be Ed Swails. Ed is a horticulturist and landscaper by profession. He studied horticulture and botany at Clemson University. He has been growing old garden roses for many years on his property on Johns Island. He will talk about old garden roses and growing roses from seed.
Social time is at 3:00 – 3:30 pm followed by a short meeting and program at 3:30 pm. Admission is free. Come and join us and learn something new about rose gardening.
Most gardeners outside of the rose societies think Knock Out roses are the only disease resistant roses in commerce. There are other roses besides Knock Out roses that are disease resistant and some are very fragrant too which Knock Out roses are not. Knock Out roses are also known to be susceptible to Rose Rosette Disease and once you have it, it can wipe out your whole garden.
Compiled from the Charleston Lowcountry Rose Society members’ survey, here is a list of disease resistant roses in alphabetical order with their class, color and rating according to the American Rose Society Handbook for Selecting Roses:
**Archduke Charles – China – Red Blend – 8.5
Belinda Dream – Shrub – Medium Pink – 8.4
Beverly – Hybrid Tea – Pink Blend – 7.8
**Blush Noisette – Noisette – White – 8.4
Bow Bells – Shrub – Deep Pink – 8.1
Carefree Beauty – Shrub – Medium Pink – 8.7
Charlotte – Shrub – Light Yellow – 8.0
**Cramoisi Superieur – China – Med. Red – 8.8
Cuarto de Julio – Floribunda – Orange
Easter Basket – Floribunda – Yellow Blend – 7.9
Easy Does It – Floribunda – Orange Pink – 7.9
First and Foremost – MiniFlora – Pink Blend – 7.5
Francis Meilland – Hybrid Tea – Light Pink – 7.6
Grande Amore – Hybrid Tea – Medium Red – 7.7
Heaven on Earth – Floribunda – Apricot Blend – 7.8
The Charleston Lowcountry Rose Society is having their November meeting at James Island Town Hall, 1238-B Camp Rd., James Island on Sunday, Nov. 6. Social at 2:30 pm; meeting at 3 pm. Admission is open to the public and is free. The November speaker is Sandy Lundberg, a CLRS past president, American Rose Society Consulting Rosarian and ARS accredited judge. Sandy maintains a rose garden of 400 rose bushes at her home in Blufton, SC and is a top rose exhibitor in the country. Sandy will have a slide presentation of new rose introductions that show great promise or are known to be performing well in the low country. So be ready to take notes of her recommendations.
There will be roses, wine, music and books at the September 2016 meeting of the Charleston Lowcountry Rose Society on Sunday, September 11, 2016 at James Island Town Hall, 1238-B Camp Rd., James Island. Refreshment at 2:30 PM; Meeting at 3 PM. Please bring your roses in wine bottles and wine, cheese and something to go with the cheeses like crackers or fruit.
As part of our program, we are honoring our resident authors who have just published their new books: Rosalinda Morgan, our current president with “The Wentworth Legacy”, a historical novel
and Dr. Fletcher Derrick, one of our past presidents with “Surgeon/Spy”, an autobiography.
They will talk briefly about their books. Then there will be a book-signing afterwards. Their books will be available for sale at the meeting – The Wentworth Legacy at $18.95 and Surgeon/Spy at $20. Both books can also be purchased at www.amazon.com. Rosalinda Morgan is a retired Certified Public Accountant and New York State Real Estate Broker Associate. She also has a degree in Art and Antique Appraisal. Dr. Fletcher Derrick is a Charleston, SC Board Certified Urologist and a Fellow of the American College of Surgeons. They are both American Rose Society Consulting Rosarians.
Ulyana Machneva, a classical guitarist and one of our new members, will play her guitar for us.
Also, if anyone has had problems with their roses this summer, please bring your questions and Consulting Rosarians will be able to help you.
At the Rose Show on April 30, 2016 at James Island Town Hall, 1238B Camp Rd., James Island, SC, there will also be a Rose Photography Contest open only to members of Charleston Lowcountry Rose Society. If you want to show your rose photography and you are not a member yet, you can join the Charleston Lowcountry Rose Society at the show by paying $15 for single membership or $20 for family membership. There will be 9 categories ranging from photos of single bloom and spray of roses to rose garden photography and abstract impression of roses.
Information about the society and how to grow beautiful roses will be available during the Rose Show.
Admission to the show is free.
Class 1: One bloom, at its most perfect stage, HT, Gr, F of any variety including singles, no sidebuds.
Class 2: One spray, FT, Gr, F, Polyantha, two or more blooms.
Class 3: One bloom of a miniature or miniflora, no sidebuds
Class 4: A spray of a miniature or miniflora
Class 5: One Bloom of Shrub or Old Garden Rose
Class 6: A spray of a Shrub or Old Garden Rose
Class 7: Open bloom rose(s) of any class, stamens must show.
Class 8: A photo of any rose garden or any rose society activity
Class 9: Abstract or Impressionism: A photo having non-objective design, form or content, of a rose plant(s) or any portion thereof. Does not include abstract arrangements.
Contest is open onlyto members of the Charleston Lowcountry Rose Society and must have taken all photographs entered. Any contestants who have not paid their current year’s dues will be ineligible.
Contestants are permitted to enter a maximum of three photographs per class in all classes. However, contestants may enter only one photo of a particular variety in ANY class. Photos can be in 4” x 6” or 5” x 7” size but no frame or matting is allowed.
Duplicate photos may NOT be entered in different classes.
The rose photos must be entered with the ARS approved exhibition name. Grooming the rose(s) is encouraged and artificial backgrounds may be used.
Photographs need to be submitted in the following format: class number with the letters a-c for multiple pictures in the same class, last name of the contestant and the approved exhibition name of the rose. An example would be 1a-Morgan – Gemini; 1b-Morgan – Queen Elizabeth; 1c-Morgan – Betty Boop. Tag should be taped in back of the photo. Any text in front of the entry will be cause for disqualification.
Any photographs may be enhanced by the use of any graphic program, such as Photoshop, Elements or Photo Impact.
Any individual who enters this contest give express permission to CLRS to use their photos for our educational display at various Charleston libraries in May. Photos will be returned to contestants in June.
Class 1-5 will be judged 50% on exhibition quality and 50% on photographic excellence. Class 6 & 7 will be judged on photographic excellence only.
The judges reserve the right to disqualify any entry that does not conform to the stated rules prior to the entries being judged.
There will be awards in each class: Blue ribbons for first place; Red ribbons for second place and Yellow ribbons for third place. The Blue ribbons winners in each class will be eligible for Best of Contest Award.
Now is the time to plan our rose garden. The box stores and local nurseries do not carry roses that we enjoy. They are just selling Knock Out roses. If you are looking where to buy good roses, I recommend you use the mail order rose suppliers. They are the best sources of roses. In my years of rose gardening which started in 1971, I have always bought my roses through mail order suppliers and I have been very happy with them. The following is a list of rose suppliers that I have used over the years and they have excellent roses and their services are outstanding.
As the end of February approaches, it will again be time to prune roses in the Lowcountry. In order to approach this job effectively, it is desirable to have an understanding of the concept of pruning. As a rose plant matures each year, it produces new canes. These newer canes are the most desirable, because they will be the most vigorous producers of flowers. Older canes may have become unproductive simply because of the aging of the plant or damage from winds and cold. Removal of these canes will allow room for new productive canes to emerge. There will also be a lot of twiggy growth that will produce inferior stems if not removed.
Exactly when should we prune? Let your rose bush and the weather channel be your guide. Generally, it is ideal to prune when the bud eyes have become red and swollen to about very small pea size. However, we remember what happened two years ago with the early March freezes. Emerging growth of several inches was frozen. For that reason, many area rosarians, including myself delay pruning. We are now waiting until the last week of February in our garden to begin pruning, depending on the weather forecasts.
As you begin, pull back the mulch to expose the bud union. Remove any small, twiggy growth, clearing out the middle of the plant. These small canes and branches left in the center are an invitation for disease and insects. Study the canes that are left. Remove any damaged or diseased canes flush with the bud union. The number of canes you leave on the plant will depend on your goals for your garden. If you exhibit and want larger, but fewer flowers, you will want to leave from 3 to 5 canes. If you want garden display, you may want to leave a few more. Now you need to determine which canes to remove. Be sure to remove the cane flush with the bud union and seal. If any are crossing or rubbing each other, remove the smallest one. If there are canes that are interfering with the plant next to it, you should remove them also. Leave last year’s new canes if they are undamaged. If any sucker growth is present, remove it also.
Cut the canes at a 45 degree angle to an outside healthy bud eye. The height depends on personal preference. If you want fewer, but larger blooms for exhibition, you will want to cut lower. Most exhibitors prune to about 18 to 20 inches. Any canes that have blackened freeze damage should be cut below the damaged area. The same is true for canes damaged by cane borers. This damage can be seen when the cane’s center (pith) is brown. Continue cutting back until healthy white pith can be seen. If you have to go back to the point where the cane is only a few inches short, it is best to remove the cane entirely. When finished, the bush should have a vase shape with the center completely open. The pruning cuts should be sealed with a sealer such as Elmer’s Glue.
In order to encourage basal breaks, you can peel off the loose layers of bark that overlay the bud union or if the bark is not loose, you may gently scrub some off with a wire brush. As long as no late freezes are expected, leave the mulch pushed back to expose the bud union. The exposure to sunshine helps encourage basal breaks.
Immediately after pruning, the bushes and surrounding ground should be sprayed with a good fungicide and a good insecticide. Thereafter it is essential that your disease and pest management program be strictly adhered to. Remove any diseased leaves that may be lying on the ground.
At this time, your organic mixture should be lightly scratched into the ground. We use 3 cups per hybrid tea and floribunda and 1 cup per miniature rose.
Pruning of floribundas follows the same principles as apply to hybrid teas with a couple of notable exceptions. Generally, floribundas that produce sprays are pruned higher and not as many canes removed. The floribundas that are noted for producing one bloom per stem, such as Sheila’s Perfume, will be pruned the same as hybrid teas.
Miniature roses are pruned with the following principle in mind. Remove the smaller, weaker canes, any twiggy growth, and any damaged canes. The number of canes left will depend on the age of the plant. Some newer minis may only have three or four good canes established, where some older plants may have as many as ten or more. Since they are on their own roots, there is not the concern to make room on a bud union for new canes. As with hybrid teas, however, the ideal is to open the middle of the plant as a disease and pest prevention measure. Usually, the height to which I prune depends on the age and thickness of the canes. About 12 to 15 inches for a large mini bush with large canes is sufficient.
Good quality tools will make this job much easier:
Felco pruners (never use flat blade pruners as they mash the canes)
Thorn resistant gloves
A jar of alcohol (dip the pruners frequently to avoid transmitting disease)
It is a good idea to carry all of these in a plastic tote.
Note: We bought the Felco folding saw and it is great! I don’t have a lot of strength in my right wrist due to rheumatoid arthritis damage. With this saw I can easily saw through very thick canes.