Recommended Disease Resistant Roses for the Charleston, SC Area

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Cramoisi Superieur – fragrant, floriferous and very disease resistant

Most gardeners outside of the rose societies think Knock Out roses are the only disease resistant roses in commerce. There are other roses besides Knock Out roses that are disease resistant and some are very fragrant too which Knock Out roses are not. Knock Out roses are also known to be susceptible to Rose Rosette Disease and once you have it, it can wipe out your whole garden.

Compiled from the Charleston Lowcountry Rose Society members’ survey, here is a list of disease resistant roses in alphabetical order with their class, color and rating according to the American Rose Society Handbook for Selecting Roses:

**Archduke Charles – China – Red Blend – 8.5

Belinda Dream – Shrub – Medium Pink – 8.4

Beverly – Hybrid Tea – Pink Blend – 7.8

**Blush Noisette – Noisette – White – 8.4

Bow Bells – Shrub – Deep Pink – 8.1

Carefree Beauty – Shrub – Medium Pink – 8.7

Charlotte – Shrub – Light Yellow – 8.0

**Cramoisi Superieur – China – Med. Red – 8.8

Cuarto de Julio – Floribunda – Orange

Easter Basket – Floribunda – Yellow Blend – 7.9

Easy Does It – Floribunda – Orange Pink – 7.9

First and Foremost – MiniFlora – Pink Blend – 7.5

Francis Meilland – Hybrid Tea – Light Pink – 7.6

Grande Amore – Hybrid Tea – Medium Red – 7.7

Heaven on Earth – Floribunda – Apricot Blend – 7.8

Heritage – Shrub – Light Pink – 8.5

Iceberg – Floribunda – White – 8.4

Lady Hillingdon – Tea – Yellow Blend – 8.3

**Lamarque – Noisette – White – 8.9

**Louis Philippe – China – Red Blend – 8.9

Mme Alfred Carriere – Noisette – White – 8.8

**Mme Plantier – Alba – White – 8.9

Mohana – Hybrid Tea – Yellow

Molineux – Shrub – Deep Yellow – 8.0

Mons. Tillier – Tea – Orange Pink – 8.6

Mozart – Hybrid Musk – Pink Blend – 8.0

Mystic Beauty – Bourbon – Light Pink – 8.1

New Dawn – Climber – Light Pink – 8.4

**Old Blush – China – Medium Pink – 8.8

Pink Pet – China – Medium Pink – 8.7

Pretty Lady – Floribunda- Light Pink – 8.3

Quietness – Shrub – Light Pink – 8.3

Reve d’Or – Noisette – Medium Yellow – 9.2

South Africa – Grandiflora – Dark Yellow

Sunshine Daydream – Grandiflora – Light Yellow – 8.0

Teasing Georgia – Shrub – Yellow Blend – 7.7

The Fairy – Polyantha – Light Pink – 8.7

The McCartney Rose – Hybrid Tea – Medium Pink – 8.2

Traviata – Hybrid Tea – Dark Red – 8.1

William Shakespeare – Shrub – Dark Red – 7.7

Roses with ** are eligible for Dowager Queen at a rose show. I could not find any rating for Cuarto de Julio, Mohana and South Africa so they are listed without a rating.

 

Until Next time. Stop and Smell the Roses

Rosalinda R Morgan

Author & Garden Writer

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Spring Forward to a New Rose Season

 

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While our fellow gardeners in the North are still hibernating, we in the South are getting ready to start our growing season. Here is a rundown of what rosarians in the South have in their To-Do-List for February:

 

CLEAN UP – If you have not done anything in the garden in January, it is time to start the clean up now before the growing season begins in earnest. Take off the old leaves and dead canes from your rose bushes. Bag them and put them in the trash. Any diseased leaves that fell to the ground, rake them up and discard them. Do NOT put in the compost pile. Pull out weeds and keep your garden bed neat and tidy.

 

SHOVEL PRUNING – Any dead rose and non-performing rose for the last two years have to go. No sense in spending time, space and money on them. Get rid of them and replace them with new ones. Before you plant the new one, replace all the soil in the hole.

 

CATALOGUE BROWSING – I don’t know about you but I’m inundated with catalogs since January. There are so many new rose introductions. Don’t go with the picture alone. Read the description. A lot of gardeners are now looking for disease resistant roses and fragrant roses. I am one of them. Since I have a small garden, I only want fragrant roses now. I also have limited time for garden work so I like disease resistant roses.

 

WATERING – Roses need water even in winter. A well-hydrated rose will fare better at all times. Make sure you water your roses if there is no rain in the forecast. Roses in pots should be watered a few times during the week.

 

PRUNING – Major pruning should be done by the end of February in our region. Bob Lundberg will be talking about pruning at our February meeting so I’ll let you hear from Bob all the details.

 

SPRAYING – Consider spraying with dormant oil before it gets too warm to discourage bugs and diseases in the coming rose season. If your roses struggled with blackspot this past year, lime sulfur is a good way to help clean up lingering fungal spores, along with a horticultural oil that will smother pests and their eggs. If you spray lime sulfur, make sure to do so when overnight temperatures will remain above freezing  and be sure to read the label and apply in accordance with manufacturer’s recommendations. It is a good idea to spray both the ground and the plant and getting good coverage both top and bottom of the leaves.

 

TESTING THE SOIL pH – If you have not tested the pH of your soil, it is time to do it now. Soil samples need to come from the root zone of the plant, which means getting down past the mulch into the root zone where the soil chemistry is important. If the pH is lower than 6.0, you should add a slow-acting lime. If the test showed the pH higher than 7.0, then you should add sulfur. A pH of 6.5 is ideal for roses to be able to maximize the available nutrients. The question is, how much lime is the right amount? To raise the pH from 5.5 to 6.5 a typical application rate is 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of garden area. Do not use more than 5 pounds per 100 square feet at any one time. If you are not sure how big your rose bed is, use 1 cup of lime per bush and ½ cup per miniature. remember that raking the lime into the top couple inches of soil will yield better results than sprinkling it over the soil’s surface.

 

SOIL AMENDMENTS – Spread your organic fertilizer like alfalfa meal now. It will not cause the plant to start growing until the soil warms up in the spring. I usually put in compost and put a new layer of mulch. I also put Epsom Salts at this time of the year.

 

After you get the garden ready, sit back and wait for the spring bloom.

MAIL ORDER ROSE SUPPLIERS

 

Now is the time to plan our rose garden. The box stores and local nurseries do not carry roses that we enjoy. They are just selling Knock Out roses. If you are looking where to buy good roses, I recommend you use the mail order rose suppliers. They are the best sources of roses. In my years of rose gardening which started in 1971, I have always bought my roses through mail order suppliers and I have been very happy with them. The following is a list of rose suppliers that I have used over the years and they have excellent roses and their services are outstanding.

 

Antique Rose Emporium

9300 Lueckemeyer Road

Brenham, TX 77833-6453

PH: 800-441-0002

Email: roses@weareroses.com

Website: www.antiqueroseemporium.com

 

Chamblee’s Rose Nursery

10926 US Hwy 69 N

Tyler, TX 75706-5933

PH: 800-256-7673

Email: roses@tyler.net

Website:www.chambleeroses.com

 

David Austin Roses Limited

15059 State Highway, 64 West

Tyler, TX 75704

PH: 800-328-8893

Email: US@davidaustinroses.com

Website: www.davidaustinroses.com

10% discount to ARS members

 

Edmunds’ Roses

6235 S.W. Kahle Road

Wilsonville, OR 97070

PH: 888-481-7673

Email: info@edmundsroses.com

Website: www.edmundsroses.com

 

Heirloom Roses

24062 Riverside Drive NE

St. Paul, OR 97137

PH: 503-538-1576

Website: www.heirloomroses.com

10% discount to ARS members

 

High Country Roses

P.O. Box 22901

Denver, CO 80222

PH: 800-552-2082

Website: www.highcountryroses.com

 

J.W. Jung Seed Co.

335 S. High St.

Randolph, WI 53957-0001

PH: 800-247-5864

Website: www.jungseed.com

 

K&M Roses

1260 Chicora River Rd.

Buckatunna, MS 39322

PH: 601-648-2908

Email: info@kandmroses.com

Website: www.kandmroses.com

 

Northland Rosarium

9405 S. Williams Lane

Spokane, WA 99224

PH: 509-448-4968

Website: www.northlandrosarium.com

 

Regan Nursery

4286 Decoto Road

Fremont, CA 94555

PH: 510-797-3222

Email: regan@regannursery.com

Website: www.regannursery.com

 

Rogue Valley Roses

P.O. Box 116

Phoenix, OR 97504

PH: 541-535-1307

Website: www.roguevalleyroses.com

10% discount to ARS members

 

Rosemania

4020 Trail Ridge Dr.

Franklin, TN 37067

PH: 888-600-9665

Website – www.rosemania.com

 

Roses Unlimited

363 N. Deerwood Dr.

Laurens, SC 29360

PH: 864-682-7673

Website: www.rosesunlimitedownroot.com

 

Roses of Yesterday & Today Rose Garden

803 Brown’s Valley Road

Watsonville, CA 95076

PH: 831-728-1901

Website: www.rosesofyesterday.com

 

Spring Hill Nurseries

110 West Elm St.

Tipp City, OH 45371-1699

PH: 812-537-2177

Website: www.springhillnursery.com

 

Wayside Gardens

1 Garden Lane

Hodges, SC 29695-0001

PH: 800-845-1124

Website: www.waysidegardens.com

 

White Flower Farm

P.O. Box 50

Litchfield, CT 06759-0050

Ph: 800-503-9624

Website: www.whiteflowerfarm.com

 

Until next time – Stop and smell the roses.

Rosalinda, The Rose Lady

Rosalinda Morgan

Author & Garden Writer

 

 

AN ANNUAL RITUAL-ROSE PRUNING!

By Sandy Lundberg

 

 

As the end of February approaches, it will again be time to prune roses in the Lowcountry. In order to approach this job effectively, it is desirable to have an understanding of the concept of pruning.   As a rose plant matures each year, it produces new canes. These newer canes are the most desirable, because they will be the most vigorous producers of flowers. Older canes may have become unproductive simply because of the aging of the plant or damage from winds and cold. Removal of these canes will allow room for new productive canes to emerge. There will also be a lot of twiggy growth that will produce inferior stems if not removed.

 

Exactly when should we prune? Let your rose bush and the weather channel be your guide. Generally, it is ideal to prune when the bud eyes have become red and swollen to about very small pea size.   However, we remember what happened two years ago with the early March freezes. Emerging growth of several inches was frozen. For that reason, many area rosarians, including myself delay pruning. We are now waiting until the last week of February in our garden to begin pruning, depending on the weather forecasts.

 

As you begin, pull back the mulch to expose the bud union. Remove any small, twiggy growth, clearing out the middle of the plant. These small canes and branches left in the center are an invitation for disease and insects. Study the canes that are left. Remove any damaged or diseased canes flush with the bud union. The number of canes you leave on the plant will depend on your goals for your garden. If you exhibit and want larger, but fewer flowers, you will want to leave from 3 to 5 canes. If you want garden display, you may want to leave a few more. Now you need to determine which canes to remove. Be sure to remove the cane flush with the bud union and seal.   If any are crossing or rubbing each other, remove the smallest one. If there are canes that are interfering with the plant next to it, you should remove them also.   Leave last year’s new canes if they are undamaged. If any sucker growth is present, remove it also.

 

Cut the canes at a 45 degree angle to an outside healthy bud eye. The height depends on personal preference. If you want fewer, but larger blooms for exhibition, you will want to cut lower. Most exhibitors prune to about 18 to 20 inches. Any canes that have blackened freeze damage should be cut below the damaged area. The same is true for canes damaged by cane borers. This damage can be seen when the cane’s center (pith) is brown. Continue cutting back until healthy white pith can be seen. If you have to go back to the point where the cane is only a few inches short, it is best to remove the cane entirely.   When finished, the bush should have a vase shape with the center completely open. The pruning cuts should be sealed with a sealer such as Elmer’s Glue.

 

In order to encourage basal breaks, you can peel off the loose layers of bark that overlay the bud union or if the bark is not loose, you may gently scrub some off with a wire brush. As long as no late freezes are expected, leave the mulch pushed back to expose the bud union. The exposure to sunshine helps encourage basal breaks.

 

Immediately after pruning, the bushes and surrounding ground should be sprayed with a good fungicide and a good insecticide. Thereafter it is essential that your disease and pest management program be strictly adhered to.   Remove any diseased leaves that may be lying on the ground.

 

At this time, your organic mixture should be lightly scratched into the ground. We use 3 cups per hybrid tea and floribunda and 1 cup per miniature rose.

 

Pruning of floribundas follows the same principles as apply to hybrid teas with a couple of notable exceptions. Generally, floribundas that produce sprays are pruned higher and not as many canes removed. The floribundas that are noted for producing one bloom per stem, such as Sheila’s Perfume, will be pruned the same as hybrid teas.

 

Miniature roses are pruned with the following principle in mind. Remove the smaller, weaker canes, any twiggy growth, and any damaged canes. The number of canes left will depend on the age of the plant. Some newer minis may only have three or four good canes established, where some older plants may have as many as ten or more. Since they are on their own roots, there is not the concern to make room on a bud union for new canes. As with hybrid teas, however, the ideal is to open the middle of the plant as a disease and pest prevention measure. Usually, the height to which I prune depends on the age and thickness of the canes. About 12 to 15 inches for a large mini bush with large canes is sufficient.

 

Good quality tools will make this job much easier:

  1. Felco pruners (never use flat blade pruners as they mash the canes)
  2. Lobbing shears
  3. Pruning saw
  4. Thorn resistant gloves
  5. Elmer’s glue
  6. Wire brush
  7. A jar of alcohol (dip the pruners frequently to avoid transmitting disease)

It is a good idea to carry all of these in a plastic tote.

 

Note: We bought the Felco folding saw and it is great! I don’t have a lot of strength in my right wrist due to rheumatoid arthritis damage. With this saw I can easily saw through very thick canes.